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This trip is going past the Mont Thabor, Les Écrins, Queyras, and then to Italy along Vinadio until Terme di Valdieri. ModaneI stayed at the Refuge des Sapinieres on the Municipal Camping ground. The hut is actually a converted garden shed, but isolated from the campground up on a rock. Recommended. This was my third stay there. I donated a Guest Book, and it so happened that Imo, who I met last year read a couple of days later in the book that I was only 2 days ahead. So she hurried and a couple of days later she caught me in! It was a nice surprise. Mont ThaborRefuge de Thabor (2500 m) is one of the higher huts around. A popular place because it is on the Tour du Mont Thabor, so make a reservation. 0479 203213. There will be a major renovation of the hut in the coming years, because the guests demand showers! :p
NévacheIn Névache next to the parking lot there is a tourist office. They are very helpful to find accommodation. Ask for a dortoir. Do visit the beautiful church with old fresco's. Les Monêtier-Les BainsIf you have a GPS (you should!) you will notice that after Col de Buffere there is an unmarked track leading straight down. The start of the track is very, very hard to find. Trust your GPS, it will save you a detour. Nevertheless the time to get down is much more then 2 hours! VallouiseIn picturesque but tourist overladen Vallouise there is little choice for accommodation. The GR54-dortoir as well as the Refuge Aguille are closed down, and the Gite Baouti is almost always full. Next door is the one star hotel Edelweiss, a good alternative for €48+ pppn, breakfast only. (exclusive)
Mont-DauphinThe Gite d'Etape Le Glacier Bleu is in the middle of the old town. It is the place of the old bakery shop, you can still see the oven. Friendly, small, good food, recommended. The track is poorly signed. With your GPS and the track loaded into it, finding your way is no problem. BramousseComing down from Furfande, past the Parking Lot, there is a short-cut foot-path straight down, avoiding the asphalted road. Not recommended to pass with your donkey or during rain. The Gite d'Etape Le Riou Vert in Bramousse is good. Nice garden, good food.
Col de GirardinThis is the highest pass on this part. Almost 2700 m altitude. CiapperaWhen I got in Chiappera I found the Base Camp Refuge was let to a children group, And all other places full. The only hotel was Londra in Acceglio, 10 km down the valley. Very luxurious but affordable. Friendly, good food. The owner will pick you up by car from Chiappera or even Chialvetta, And put you back the next day. He will also arrange the next reservation for you. Recommended. Tel. 0039 347 435 1662
GardettaJust past the Col de Gardetta there is the Rifugio Gardetta. That evening the warden gave a lecture about the dinosaurs that used to live here. And showed some fossils. Nearby there is a war memorial with artifacts of the previous wars. Ponte BernardoThe Posto Tappa (which is Italian for 'Gite d'Etape') here is located in three buildings: The dormitory, a restaurant and a bar with nice terrace. MiglioreroNo need to climb the Colle di Stau, because you can get to Vallone by walking up an even asphalted Road. That will save you time. When I passed rifugio Zanotti, I saw it was abandoned and locked. So check at rifugio Vallone if it is open. I continued to rifugio Migliorera, which is big. From Migliorera to Strepseis, of you are tired of climbing up passes, you can also reach it by going through the valley. That will save you half a day and nobody will mind!
Santa Anna di VinadioS.Anna is a church, a cloister and a huge Rifugio. Lots of tourists, there is a special building for Via-Alpina (and GTA) travellers. Be careful with the shower, it will flood the place! Visit the church and see walls full of artistic impressions of accidents and other disasters.
Terme di ValdieriIf you want to stay at Terme de Valdieri, report at the lobby of the first class Hotel Royal. Impressive place, it may well be that the hotel scenes of 'Death in Venice' were shot here. Tell them you are a GTA traveler, and you will be put in the nearby Posto Tappa. Dinner is served in the hotels restaurant, and you will be served as luxurious as any other guest. If you packed your suit in your backpack, then this is the occasion to wear it! You will be served a somewhat simpler GTA-menu. HP €49 pppn.
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