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Some remarks of the track between Maloya and Biasca MaloyaThe former YH now only accepts groups. Soon it will be torn down to be replaced bij an appartment flat. That leaves the Sport Hotel as probably the cheapest (CHF 65). The place is OK. Watch the plants growing on the ceiling of the restaurant. Closed on monday. Walk down to a bare rock (5 min South) where you can see the Maloja pass road winding down to the valley.
JufIn Juf, Pension Edelweiss, the warden said in harsh words he wouldn't have me. So I went up to the kiosk where the lady recommended hotel Bargalga. Hotel Bergalga is a 'Genossenschaft' (Swiss form of community driven enterprise), and serves only local and biological food. CHF73 dorm halfpension. So if you can drag yourself another 2km down the valley, then do it. Recommended. Innerferrara, BertacchiThe hotel in Innerferrara is closed on Mondays. The Bertacchi Hut was closed when I arrived there late monday-evening.
But the door was left open and up the stairs were beds and blankets.
Outside there is running water. Wonderful night, completely alone during a wild thunderstorm.
IsolaIn Isola you go to the 'Trattoria Cardinello'. (€65 half pension). Try their refreshing draught white wine! The warden (speaks German) liked to listen to my adventures and translated them to the other guests on the terrace. From 7pm you will be invited in the 18th century mansion, where with an aperitivo you will be introduced into the family's history. Then in the grand room -unchanged for 200+ years- dished of food and jars of wine keep coming in until about 9.30 pm. Stuff up well, because you will have a long way to go tomorrow! If you think Isola is a place in nowhere, you haven't seen the really wonderfull 17th century frescoes in the church. Also see the photos of the WWI victims, on a chapel nearby. Pian, MesoccoThe Italian part of the VA is not very well marked. From the Pass di Baldiscio up to the Swiss border no marks at all!! I followed the GPX track that I downloaded here (see link above) on my gps and got along well. If you have no gps, then -in this part- stay on the north side of the stream. The first thing you see in Switserland is a track sign! :) The only place in Pian san Giamoco -The Pizzeria- is definitively closed. The place is a ruin now. You will have to proceed 1 hour to 'the Motto' in Mesocco, run by an elderly couple who have lost belief that anything exciting is ever going to happen in their lives.. (Closed on Tuesday) Closer to the church there is a Garni in a white building with beautiful gargoils.
A little cheaper than Motto.
RossoIn the Albergio (CHF 60) and the 'Alpina Restaurant' there are rooms. SelmaThe cable car is self-service, Press the button in the cabin to fire yourself off. When going down you pay downhill as you go out. An ingenious mechanism makes it possible to access the ticket machine, inside and outside the gates! Capana CavaYou will be welcomed by Nicoletta, and soon you'll feel at home, forgetting your tiredness.
In her kitchen everything is prepared from fresh local products.
Dairy from the farm a little downhill. Try her sweet chestnut cream from the trees in her valley garden.
BiascaIn Biasca hotel Giardinetto charges CHF 88. Around the train station (15mins) prices tend to be cheaper. Visit the old church on the hill with medieval fresco's inside. UlrichenIn Ulrichen all hotels are ***-rated, and prices 70+.
In the evening visit the village with its old wooden farmhouses. There is also a camping for the ones who like carrying tents and cooking-gear across passes. Baselhttp://www.Baselbackpack.com Dormitory CHF32, 10 minutes south of the station
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