This trip is going past Liechtenstein, Rätikon, Sylvretta, Untere Engadin, South Tirol, Stilfser Joch, Valtellina, Bernina Massif.

I passed 4 countries: Austria, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, and Italy. I passed the border 11 times.

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R56 Gafadura hut

In Feldkirch, try to get your CHF's here. If you can't, all the Liechtenstein and Swiss places you will stay next, will accept euro's as well.

If you think this day is boring, don't worry, this will be compensated tomorrow. The Gafadura warden prefers that everyone books in advance, because she wants to plan the beds. No wifi or showers in this place.

R57 Sücka

This is physically a hard trip. Take plenty of water, because up there there isn't any. When I was about to die of dehydration on the Fürstensteig, a sudden rainstorm saved my live! The Gasthof Sücka also has dorms (CHF 30).

R58 Pfälzerhütte

In the Pfälzerhutte (FL) there are no showers. Wash yourself with cold tap water. There are signs saying you cannot drink the water there. But I did, and I am still alive! They accept euro's.

R60 Carschinahütte

Carschinahütte is a very popular hut by mountain-climbers. So book in advance. Very good food. No showers. Electricity is generated by a water-turbine. They will accept euro's, and bank-cards (Both at extra costs)

R61 St. Antönien

Gästehaus Türli is south of town, coords 46.96314, 9.81138. It is recommended to call in before you arrive. +41 81 332 2060 The old house is still in pretty original Swiss state, all wood; no concrete or steel.

R62 Gargellen

The first thing you think when you arrive in Gargellen is "how to get out of here". But the tourist office is very helpful. They advised Edelweiss and Marmotta. Both are hotels, but cheap in comparison to Switzerland. Gasthaus Taschen does not take hikers anymore: what did we do wrong?

R63 Tübinger Hütte

The Tübinger hut is renovated and looks more more like a luxury hotel. Hot water, showers, etc. Electricity is generated by water pressure.

R64 Madlener Haus

The east-side of the Hochmaderer joch is not marked or secured on hard places. Parallel to that joch there is one that seems much easier.

The Madlener Haus is definitely closed, it has been sold. Try one of the two hotels on the lake, or take the bus down to Galtür. (€3.60+€4.00 road tax) Opposite the bus stop there is the tourist office, which will help you to get into one of the many private B&B's over there. Ideal place for a day's rest; you'll get a tourist ticket which will give you free bus rides and free entries.

R65 Jamtalhütte

The Jamtalhütte is a massive place. They house a climbing school, for people who love to do bondage with mountains. At arrival you Will be offered a plate of soup. Food is good here.

R66 Scuol

If you are in Ftan and you think you had enough, you can take the bus for the last 4 kms. The Youth Hostel is that yellowish cube of concrete near the station, that you can see from far.

R67 S-charl

Very few accommodation in S-scharl. Book well in advance. As an alternative, book 2 days in Scuol YH, Walk the second day without luggage to S-Charl, after arrival take the frequent postbus back, and the next morning take the bus up again and from there start your next hike.

R68 Taufers

The hotel Chavalatsch is a fraud, I booked by telephone, but at night I received a mail telling me that they increased the price by 25%. So I found Haus Abart 0039 0473 832195, (coords 46.64256, 10.46121). Haus Abart has cheap rooms with shared bathroom and kitchen. €35. There is a pizzeria 10 mins up the road near the Swiss border.

R69 Stilfs

The Obere Stilfser Alm hütte is a very nice small hut. Staying there means that you don't have to go all the way down to Stilfs, and the next day go up again. Actually I think this should be the stage destination! (coords 46.60016, 10.50897)

R70 Stilfser Joch

At 2850 m the highest pass for many days!

R71 Arnoga

Todays hike comes in three parts: 10 km to Forcella Pass, down touching Switzerland, and then a beautiful highway. Too many annoying bikers in this part. Then the best, down 10 km through a narrow quiet valley, hardly any people. Past the lake, and *between* the two pillars steep down to the last 10 km, which is the easiest, but rather a boring part. The whole day took me a little over 8 hours walking time.

I almost got ripped off by Albergo Li Arnoga, not only are they very expensive, they also charged extra services I did not use. So if you stay there, check your bill!

R72 Eita

Baita Franzini is a must-go. The only place where I got a free beer at arrival. It now has a hot showers. 5 beds. A bit hard to find, so here the coordinates: 46.3719,10.2528. Price €50 HP. Good food, friendly people. From this place you will have a fine view on the pass that you will climb tomorrow.

R73 Malghera

Italian toilets! For acrobats only...

R74 Rifugio Schiazzera

This track is easy to follow, well sign-posted, and cleared of obstructions. Two steep climbs. Alpe Piano was closed and abandoned, and Alpe Salina is but an abandoned farm shed. None offer accommodation! At the end of the day you can save 2 hours walking time by going straight down to the hut (skipping the lake). Except for the toilets, this hut is OK!

R75 Tirano

You will arrive in Tirano early afternoon. Ask the tourist office at the station to call Lori. Then go to Lori's (she will speak Italian or French), through the railway tunnel 10 minutes walk, and put down your sack there. Spend the rest of the day visiting the Palazzo's in the old town.

R76/1 San Romerio

Stay at San Romerio, don't rush down to Poschiavo. The Refugio has dorms, and good food. Visit the church, get the key at the refugio, take a torch so that you can have a look into the dark crypt. The church stands next to a cliff, if you go round the church it is said that you will then be lucky the rest of your life. But you must be lucky in the first place to survive...

R76/2 Poschiavo

In Poschiavo, behind the main church, a pink building: Oratorium St.Anna, when you look through the fence you see a macabre collection of human skulls.

At the railway station there is a helpful tourist office, if closed there is a pile of city maps with all 13 accommodations. I stayed at Pro Vita Communa. Rather basic but very cheap. Call in advance because the keeper does not live there. Barbara Battilana +41788238144

R77 Rifugio Runcash

You may consider staying at Refugio Runcash (rooms only). Zoia is near a parking lot, and crowded with tourists that want to experience a night at a hut.

R78 Chiareggio

At Chiareggio, bar St.Anna has rooms. They don't advertise it, so go in and ask. Conditions are basic, but very cheap €20 pppn, no meals. In the morning, you can order a coffee and a roll, though. The co-owner, Marco is willing to help you with any problem you have.