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This trip is going past Italy and France, through the National Park of the Maritime Alps and the National Park of the Marguareis.
R142 Terme di ValdieriIn Terme, pass the village across the bridge toward the Grand Hotel. Pass two gates and find Bar Savoye, the whole place is renovated last year and well recommended. Dorm at €45 HP. In the evening and morning on the back of the house you will see the ibexes jumping down and climb up steep slopes. R142 Rifugio Morelli-BuzziRifugio Morelli is isolated. Stocks are carried up by mules. You may noticed their deposits on the way up. That is why a beer is €5. Ibexes stroll all around the place. Toilets are the old Italian squat type. Exercise using them at home to avoid accidents. From here up to Rif. Mongioie you can only pay by cash! R143 Rifugio Ellena-SoriaFriendly staff at the Ellena-Soria hut. Good 5-dish dinner, and good breakfast with juice, a bowl of muesli, plenty of bread, butter and jam, hot drink to choose.
R144 Refuge de la Madone de FenestreA chaotic place and very full during holiday season. The warden offered to radio the rifuge de Nice to announce my coming, but the connection failed.
R145 Refuge de NiceThe Baisse du Basto (2700m) is the last 2500m+ col you will pass this trip. Refuge de Nice is a must-go-once for most French. So expect it to be very full. A hotel like place. Supplies are twice weekly carried up in backpacks. R146 Refuge de ValmasqueValmasque will be the last 2000m+ hut, and this one is also isolated. Goods brought up by mules. Compact multistory high bunks. For the toilets go out of the house on the back. R147 CastérinoCasterino is just a four hotel village: 3** and one ***, they are quite full, in the last ** I found a place. Auberge Val Casterino HP €83. Check your bill!
R148 LimonettoAround the huge Fort de Giaure on the grassfield you will find edelweiss everywhere. More than in anywhere else I saw on the Via. Important if you use the GPS track: going down from the fort do not take the sharp curve right. That road is dangerous, falling rocks!! Better go along the lake and follow the track marked yellow (later green and yellow)!!! Albergio Edelweiss is good, But is 30 minutes away from Limonetto, which you all have to walk back the next day. The GR-bar (Limonetto) is only open in winter. Edelweiss (HP €85) is excellent for its services. For the next day they called the next hut to announce my coming, they gave me an extra water bottle (which I well needed), and gave me an early lift back as far up as possible, with my breakfast in a bag! R149 Rifugio GarelliYou must do this very long trip in one go! The only seemingly alternative is Cabana de Morgantini. But this small hut was closed, with windows and doors shut.
R150 Rifugio MongioieIn this hut supplies are being brought by a jeep, you can sit on the toilet, free shower, wifi and be able to pay by bank-card. From the Colle del Pass up until Carnino Inferiore, there is almost no water. In Inferiore there is a bar, and after that again no water. So take extra.
R151 Rifugio QuarzinaAfter a long and boring track on the slope of the mountain you will want to stay in Quarzina (1340m), 1km past Case Biranco; just a little off the track but well worth it. Friendly young staff, splendid view over the valley that you are going to cross -and the first view of the Mediterranean!, good food etc etc R151 Refugio ChioneaRefugio Chionea is just before Ormea, so you might want to stay there. Quiet and friendly, recommended. The warden also works in the Ormea tourist office.
R151 OrmeaMedieval beautiful small town. Two hotels and some private addresses in Ormea. Hotel Italy near the train station still has an classical style Italian restaurant. Here I went ill and had to interrupt my trip.
All my overnight stays along the Via Alpina in 2019
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